Pavers

Place the porcelain pavers on the ground to decide their final position and spacing.

Mark the perimeter of the slab by making a few cuts in the ground.

Lift the slab and then remove the top layer of grass.

Remove the top layer of the lawn (to a depth of approx. 1.6-2” (4-5 cm)).

Clean and level the underlying ground.

Add a layer of gravel to smooth off the underlying base and ensure greater stability.

Lay the slab 0.2-0.4” (0.5-1 cm) below the ground level.

Compact the edges to lay the slab flush to the ground.

NOTE: Installation of EVO 2/E™ onto grass, gravel, sand or raised, is carried out using a dry-method and without fixed supports of the material onto the ground. Therefore it can be subject to adverse weather conditions such as strong winds, hurricanes and tornadoes that can hit the area.

We recommend giving considerable attention to whether to the use of this installation method in geographical areas that are likely to be subject to the above mentioned atmospheric conditions.

Roll out and fit the honeycomb mat, checking that the joints are correctly sealed.

Cover with an even layer of gravel (grain size 1.6-3.2” (4-8 mm)). The gravel can be mixed with lime to ensure greater slab adherence.

Lay the slabs carefully, checking that the laying surface remains even and level.

Check that the gap between the slabs is even.

A 0.3” (¾ mm) gap between slabs is recommended, to ensure correct water drainage. Select suitable cross-piece spaces when laying.

During laying, continuously check the flatness of the new surface

If some slabs move slightly, lift them and check the level of the gravel layer underneath, level gravel and reposition.

Check the entire existing concrete slab for low spots by laying a straight 10-ft. 2×4 on edge and level. Any areas where the gap between the slab and the 2×4 is wider than 1/8” (0.32 cm) must be filled.

If there are level variations in your concrete slab, a bonded cement/sand screed can be used to level the concrete substrate, if necessary. Select a “thin bed” adhesive for very flat surfaces with level differences of no more than 0.24” (6mm). For level variations 0.24” (6mm) or greater, select a “thick bed” adhesive for leveling. To avoid problems with the screed shrinking (and causing the tiles to crack), allow it to dry out for 1 to 2 weeks.

For very minor surface irregularities, simply use a floor-leveling compound. Floor-leveling compound is a powder that you mix with water and spread over low spots in the slab. Sometimes called SLC (self-leveling compound), floor leveler is sold under a variety of brand names. Just be sure the one you buy is recommended for outdoor use.

Important: Nothing should cover isolation joints or fill expansion joints except caulk. If you get floor leveler or isolation membrane in the joint, scrape it off with a putty knife after it hardens.

Ensure the surface that you are laying the porcelain tiles on is as level as possible. Check to make sure the concrete surface is clean and dry. And, remove any loose particles from the surface prior to Step 4.

Once you have insured your concrete is level, clean and dry, proceed by applying an isolation membrane material. An isolation membrane is an elastic barrier that separates the tile from the slab. That way, when the slab cracks—as many slabs in cold climates eventually do—the Mbrico tiles can “float” above the cracks without cracking themselves. Apply the isolation material over the slab with the notched edge of a trowel and then flatten it out with the trowel’s straight edge. When combing, hold the trowel consistently at a 45-degree angle. This insures the notches will evenly distribute the pasty material, ultimately giving you a flat, consistent membrane.

Once you have established that your slab is as level as possible and a consistent dense layer of isolation membrane has been applied, you may then cover the surface in a thin-set mortar adhesive.

Begin to lay the 20mm outdoor Mbrico porcelain tiles. Mbrico recommends an approximate spacing of 0.2” (5mm) between tiles. Always press the porcelain tiles firmly in place to avoid any air pockets forming underneath.

Squish tiles into thin-set mortar adhesive applied with a ¾” U-notch (rounded-notch) trowel. Twist the tiles back and forth slightly as you force them down. Your goal is complete coverage—that is, the space between the tiles and the membrane below should be completely filled with thin-set (no cavities to hold water and cause trouble). To allow enough space for grout, remove thin-set that wells up between the tiles or into expansion joints with a pencil or screwdriver. Clean thin-set off the surface of tiles with a damp sponge.

Remove any excess adhesive from the Mbrico tile surface immediately, as it is difficult to clean off once dry.

Allow the adhesive to dry for at least a day (longer in very cold weather), and protect from rain during the drying period if necessary.

Once the adhesive is dry, you can then apply the grout between the tiles. The type you choose is important because some grouts are only suitable for narrow joints, while others are for wide joints up to 0.79” (20mm). Press the grouting well down into the joints so that no air pockets are created, and remove the excess with a damp cloth. Again, leave to dry for at least a day, covering if it starts to rain.

Once you have insured that the Mbrico tile surface, grout and adhesives are dry, you may uncover the surface and begin use.